With Sunday fast approaching we are quickly reminded of the glue in most families; the pillar, our mothers. She is strong and caring, deserving praise every single day; though a special day is sometimes needed.

I wanted to share with you a Mother’s Day memory from my youth that I now look back on and laugh, and try to make up for every day. On a particular Mother’s Day when I was about 16 years old, my mother asked me, “Do you know what today is?” Confidently I responded, “Yes, of course. It’s Sunday. Maybe, can I have some spending money?” I quickly learned the error of my comment, and ran out to buy her a skirt only realizing later it was the wrong size. And I mean, really, the wrong size, to the point her response was, “You think I’m fat?” Needless to say, I made it up to my mother in many ways that day and have never forgotten Mother’s Day again.

Italian Mother’s Day

For Italians, Mother’s Day is celebrated as the La Festa della Mamma on the second Sunday in May. The event can be traced back to Roman times when a week long feast was held in honor of the Roman goddess, Juno; the patron of marriage and motherhood. Over time the celebration transformed with the coming of Christianity and it blended to include the worship of the Madonna. In the 1950’s the American idea of Mother’s Day was embraced in Italy, becoming one of the largest holidays of the year.

Mother’s Day is about family, and gifts are exchanged. Probably the best gift of all is the no chore rule. The family finishes a mother’s chores so that she can relax, and enjoy her special day. With the origins of the day surrounding a feast, it comes as no surprise that a large dinner is prepared with a sweet cake served for dessert. For those who can’t make it home, a phone call is necessary and Italy reaches peak usage on this day.

No matter your plans this weekend, take the time to thank your mother and all that she stands for.

-MG

A key ingredient in any Italian dish is of course pasta but many people lack the knowledge of pairing pastas with the right sauce. Pairing you might ask? Yes, pairing is essential and not just for wine, though Italians are pretty good at that too. Back to the earlier thought of light dishes, strand pastas are perfect for this time of year. They are thin and delicate (spaghetti, capellini and trenette) and best served with light oil-based sauces, light cream-based sauces and butter-based sauces.

Now once you get the idea of pairing down, cooking pasta is an art form all on its own. A few tips to help make your pasta perfect.

• Always season the cooking water with a generous helping of salt. It will yield more savory and flavorful results.
• Stir often to prevent sticking, and undercooked pasta.
• Test your pasta early. You want it to feel firm, yet slightly resistant when you bite into it. And keep in mind pasta will continue to cook after you drain it so stop cooking thin pastas just before it reaches the al dente state.
• Never rinse your pasta after it’s been drained. Rinsing strips away starches that help your sauce cling to the pasta.

Ready to taste Spring and Summer? Assaggio has rolled out a few new, lighter lunch menu items including our Pesto Pasta which has trenette, sundried tomatoes and pine nuts for that warm weather enjoyment. And remember, a post-meal stroll is customary in Italy and highly encouraged any time the sun peeks through the clouds in Seattle.

-MG

Produttori Del Barbaresco is one of those wineries that continues to please the taste buds! They are a cooperative that was started in 1958.  When the area was struggling economically and many were fleeing the farms and heading to the city to find work, the Priest of Barbaresco realized that he had to do something or he would have no parish to lead.  He was one of 19 members to start the winery.  While there are now 56 families, their original philosophy has remained true to itself.  It’s pretty basic.  Their belief is that “the land makes the wine.”   They choose to impart as little human influence to the flavor of the grapes.  They implemented a few simple rules, but quite stringent particularly for a cooperative.  For instance, all members must bring 100% of their grapes to the winery.  Additionally, members could not make any Nebbiolo-based wine on their own.  Lastly, their compensation would be a fixed amount for the weight with generous bonuses for quality.  In other words, their primary focus is not quantity like most cooperatives, but rather quality!

I have had the pleasant opportunity to meet and taste with Aldo Vacca, the Director and GM of Produttori on multiple occasions.  Each and every time I am reminded of his soft spoken, humble disposition yet enamored by his wealth of knowledge of the area and each specific detail he can share with you about every single vintage.   He truly is passionate about his land and you can tell that his mission is to try to share this knowledge with others.  He never comes across as a pushy salesman.  It’s not a winery that boasts a famous enologist.  In fact, the winemaker is never even mentioned.  You hear more about the families or should I say farmers that tend to the vineyards and treat them respectfully, proud of their contribution following the high standards that Aldo implements.

Produttori produces only Nebbiolo.  In fact, I can’t think of another winery in Piemonte that doesn’t make any other wines.  They produce a Langhe Nebbiolo, a normale Barbaresco and 9 cru Barbarescos (in only great vintages).  They control the majority of the best vineyards in the region, equating to 1/6 of all of the vineyards in the area and 280 acres in total.  I find the truly most unique appeal of this winery is that they vinify every single one of their wines the exact same way.  That translates to reductions in yields, winter pruning, green harvests in the summer, long macerations and only the use of large barrels for ageing.  You will not find any barrique in their cellar.  That makes me happy.  This results in a wine that expresses a true sense of place and vintage.  If and when you ever have the opportunity to taste their crus side by side, seize the moment.  It is then that you are able to pick up and decipher the particular nuances of the different vineyards and vintages and determine what your preference is.   I have tasted each of the 9 crus at one time or another.  While I haven’t had them all at the same tasting, I have been very close on a few occasions.  My personal preferences have varied in different vintages.  A few years ago, I was an avid supporter of Rio Sordo.  It seemed to have a higher level of minerality that I was drawn to.  The Ovello cru has and always will hold a special place in my heart as Mauro and I stayed at the Ovello Bed and Breakfast when we visited Produttori last spring.  The inviting fresh, fruit forwardness of this cru has an immediate appeal to me, especially for restaurant service.  At a recent tasting, I was sold on the Montefico.  I had the opportunity to try the ’05 vintage next to the ’07 among four other crus and the ’05 Montefico stole the show.   The Pajé was a close runner up.  It had the most fragrant nose that screamed with scents of spearmint and eucalyptus.   I’m pretty sure that the Montefico grabs me the most because it is a definite powerhouse.  The ’07 showcased it’s approachability in its youth and was meatier on the palate, definitely highlighting the warmer vintage, but man does that ’05 knock my socks off!  While it too was powerful and full-bodied, its tannins were firmer and it was more concise on the palate.  It’s a vintage that is showing very nicely now and will also lie down very well in your personal cellar.  Come on into Assaggio and enjoy a bottle for yourself (and company of course) for $90.  If you prefer to pick any of the wines for your “at home” consumption, please feel free to reach out to me.  I would be happy to help stock your cellar.  (Subtle reminder, Assaggio has a retail license)!

Salute!

Kristen

But for today, I am very excited to announce that we have a brand new Web site! The updated design better reflects the warm culinary passion that I want to share with all of you, and I think much easier to navigate. Please take a moment to look around and I would love to hear your feedback.

http://www.assaggioseattle.com/

Happy Spring!

-MG

Taste Washington
Saturday, March 31 and Sunday, April 1
2 PM – 5 PM
Indulge in Washington’s premiere food and wine tasting event at CenturyLink Field Event Center in Seattle.  This year’s event has expanded into a two day experience, with over 200 Washington wineries and many of the region’s top restaurants in attendance, all handing out plenty of samples. Assaggio will be offering Penne Cinghiale (Penne Pasta with a Wild Boar Ragύ) both days for you to try.

For further details or to purchase tickets click here, http://tastewashington.org/

FareStart Guest Chef Night Dinner
Thursday, April 5
Executive Chef Mauro Golmarvi is happily participating in Guest Chef Night at the FareStart Restaurant. He will be cooking side-by-side with FareStart students to create a delicious three-course meal, available to the public. FareStart is a culinary job training and placement program for homeless and disadvantaged individuals. Guest Chef Night gives students the opportunity to work with Seattle’s established chefs with revenues going directly back to the FareStart program. Join Mauro by calling 206.267.7601 end_of_the_skype_highlightingto make reservations and you can find more information on the program here, http://farestart.org/restaurant/guestchef/index.html

FareStart Menu

Primi

Insalata Finocchio
Layered Stack of Apples, Fennel, Parmesan Cheese, Truffle Salt, Truffle Oil

Secondi

Pollo Cacciatore
Sautéed Chicken with Tomatoes, Red Pepper, Onions and Marinara served over Creamy Polenta

Vegetarian Option

Melanzane al Forne
Classic Eggplant Parmesan

Dolci

Panna Cotta
Traditional Italian Custard of Cooked Cream

Restaurant Week
Sunday*, April 8 to Thursday, April 12
and Sunday*, April 15 to Thursday, April 19
(*Assaggio is closed Sundays)
Dine out this Spring with Assaggio Ristorante during Seattle’s Restaurant Week. We’re offering both lunch and dinner three-course meals. Reservations are recommended.

Dinner Menu (3 Courses for $28)

Appetizer  (choose one)

Calamari Puttanesca
Sautéed Calamari, Fresh Tomatoes, Capers, Olives

Potato Leek Soup
Creamy Potato Leek Soup with Crispy Pancetta and Truffle Oil

Olive Ascolane
Fried Green Olives stuffed with Ground Chicken and Pork

Minestrone Soup*
Classic Italian Vegetable Soup

Entrée (choose one)

Pork Tenderloin
Pan Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Pink Peppercorn Cassis Red Wine Demi-glace

Pappardelle Cinghiale
Pappardelle with Wild Boar Ragu

Gnocchi Burro Salvia*
Ricotta Dumplings, Sage, Brown Butter

Chicken Cacciatore
Sautéed chicken, Rich Tomato Sauce, Peppers, Onions

Dessert (choose one)

Biscotti
Traditional Italian Twice Baked Cookies

Chocolate Mousse

Panna Cotta
Italian Cooked Cream Custard with Fresh Berries

Lunch Menu (3 Courses for $15)

Appetizer (choose one)

Bruschetta*
The “Classic” with Tomatoes, Garlic and Basil

Mozzarella Skewers*
Skewers of Fresh Mozzarella, Sun Dried Tomatoes, Artichoke Hearts, Olives

Caesar Salad

Entrée (choose one)

Italian Chop Salad
Chopped Romaine, Cured Italian Meats, Olives, Artichoke Hearts, Roasted Red Peppers, Red Wine Vinaigrette

Rigatoni Pepperonata
Rigatoni, Italian Sausage, Roasted Red Peppers, Tomato Cream

Margherita Pizza*
Marinara, Fresh Mozzarella, Basil

Dessert (choose one)

Biscotti
Traditional Twice Baked Italian Cookies

Chocolate Mousse

Panna Cotta

Italian Cooked Cream Custard with Fresh Berries

* Indicates Vegetarian Options - No substitutions

Winemaker Dinner
Wednesday, May 9
Assaggio will be hosting a Winemaker Dinner featuring four Tuscan winemakers. Reservations required and can only be made through the restaurant, 206-441-1399. More details to follow.

-MG

Mimosa Cake

Mimosa Cake, a sweet treat filled with a delicious cream and flavored with Italian lemon.

Servings 8

For sponge cake

• 2 ½ oz all-purpose flour
• 2 ½ oz potato starch
• 5 oz sugar
• 6 eggs

For chantilly cream

• 2 cups milk
• 2 eggs
• 2 egg yolks
• 3 ½ oz sugar
• 1 oz all-purpose flour
• 1 lemon zest
• ½ stick vanilla
• 7 oz heavy cream
• 1 ¾ oz confectioners sugar

For syrup

• 1 cup water
• ½ cup Kirsch (dry cherry liqueur)
• 3 oz sugar

1 hour and 30 minutes preparation

To make sponge cake, whisk the eggs and sugar in a mixer until firm. Then gently fold in, little by little, the flour and potato starch, sieved together, using a spatula. Once the mixture is smooth, pour it into 2 cake tins, that have been buttered and floured; then bake at 325° F for 45 minutes. Once cooked, allow the sponge cakes to cool.

While the sponge is in the oven, make the Chantilly cream, by mixing the whipped cream with confectioner’s custard. See below on how to make the confectioner’s custard.

Whip the cream with the powdered sugar, then put it in the refrigerator.

Make the confectioner’s custard as follows.
Cut the vanilla pod lengthwise, scrape out the seeds and put them in a bowl. Using a potato peeler, take the zest off a lemon, being careful not to take any of the white part underneath. In a pot, bring the milk to the boil with the vanilla seeds and the lemon zest. As soon as the milk starts boiling, remove from heat. In a bowl, whisk the eggs and yolks with the sugar. Add the flour, previously sieved, and mix well.

Once the mixture is smooth, dilute it with a bit of warm milk, stirring while adding. Pour the remaining milk through a sieve to remove the lemon zest. Put back the mixture over the heat and cook over a low heat for 5 – 10 minutes stirring continuously, allowing it to boil for 2 – 3 minutes.

Remove the custard from the heat and allow it to cool. Once the confectioner’s custard is cold, fold it in the whipped cream.

To make the syrup, to be used to soak the sponge. Bring to boil a mixture of water and sugar so that the latter dissolves. Once dissolved, remove from the heat and add some Kirsch.

When all the ingredients are ready, assemble the cake as described below.

Step 1

Cut one sponge into horizontal layers about 0.4 inches thick.

Step 2

Line a glass bowl about 8 inches in diameter with bands of baking paper. Arrange a layer of sponge on the bottom of the bowl.

Step 3

Using a small brush soak the sponge with the Kirsch syrup.

Step 4

Spread a layer of Chantilly cream on top of the sponge and cover with another slice of sponge. Repeat the operation for 3 sponge layers. Then, put the cake in the refrigerator and allow it to rest for 30 minutes or so.

Step 5

Cut the second sponge into dices 0.2 – 0.4 inches in size.

Step 6

Turn out the cake onto a plate.

Step 7

Coat the outside of the cake with the remaining cream.

Step 8

Spread the sponge dices over the top of the cake to cover the entire cake.

Le Macchiole:

In 1975, Eugenio Campolmi and Cinzia Merli started the great estate of Le Macchiole.  He recognized the potential of his homeland long before is was fashionable.  We are talking about the wonders of Bolgheri, the once sleepy swampland along the coastal region of Tuscany in the Lovorno province, which since has been regarded as the birthplace of the first so-called “Super Tuscan”, Sassacaia! Unlike the rest of Tuscany, where Sangiovese is the “King” of red wines, this maritime climate doesn’t suite it as well.  While Sangiovese is still planted in Bolgheri, the International likes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah and Petite Verdot have become more of the mainstay!  The terroir, before anything else is the number one importance of the region.  The combination of the magical soil and these well-known varietals that thrive in Bolgheri, this area was awarded the DOC status for whites in 1984 and red wines in 1994.  The DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) is the second most stringent in Italy’s wine classification system.

While the DOC status was a tremendous validation of the area with its unique soil composition (stony, clay and quartz) and the rare maritime climate (located 5 kilometers from the sea), Cinzia Merli wanted to accomplish more.  Soon after she was widowed in 2002 she refocused the winery’s philosophy.  While everyone around her was and still is following the trend of blending varietals much like Bordeaux, she decided with the help of oenologist Luca D’Attoma to showcase the purity of each of the individual varietals on their own.  While Cinzia does produce a DOC red in her Bolgheri Rosso (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah) following the proper ageing requirements of 10 months and the permitted percentages of varietals, her true flagship wines remain in the single varietal packaging of Paleo (100% Cabernet Franc), Scrio (100% Syrah) and Messorio (100% Merlot).

Cinzia works meticulously in the vineyards day in and day out.  She makes changes where she deems necessary.  For instance, when I visited her estate about five years ago, she was just then starting to get rid of Cabernet Sauvignon entirely.  When I asked why she said that it was a bit one-dimensional for her and that it was flabby and lacking acidity. This is definitely one of the highly reputable characteristics of Cinzia.  Her determination and dedication to expressing the qualities of single varietals and the essence of where they come from is what sets her apart from the rest.  While Cinzia produces serious wines with powerful, rounded structure and excellent ageing potential, you still get a sense of elegance from her feminine touch.

My recommendation is to try her Bolgheri Rosso ’09 here at Assaggio priced at $60 on our wine list.  I would pair it with our Pappardelle Cinghiale.  It is a typical dish of Bolgheri, where the boars are prominent.  They are commonly hunted as the winemakers struggle to keep them out of their vineyards.

As for her flagship single varietal wines, these are gems for a special occasion or wine collectors.  At a recent lunch at Assaggio I had the privilege of tasting through the rock star lineup of Paleo 07 and 08, Scrio 08 and Messorio 00 and 07.  There truly is not a bad one in this bunch, but my overall pick is the Paleo ’08.  I liked the readiness of the ’07, but saw crazy potential for the ’08 in my cellar.  The wine was a little tight at first, but evolved immensely even over the course of a one hour lunch.  It still had that great dark red fruit flavor profile with hints of graphite, white pepper and fresh herbs.  The wine wasn’t nearly as ripe or concentrated as the ’07.  The finish was very persistent and more focused than that of the ’07.  Like I said I couldn’t knock any of them.  In fact, I’d put them all on a podium.  For my tastes, I just give the slight edge to Paleo.

We do have our retail license at Assaggio.  If any of you wine connoisseurs out there are interested in any of these gems for your private collection, feel free to reach out to me and I would be more than happy to help put a few bottles in your cellar.

Here are the retail prices: Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso ’09  $27 Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso ’07 or ’08  $106 Le Macchiole Scrio ’08  $128 Le Macchiole Messorio ’07 or ’08  $265

As I said, these wines are not for everyday consumption.  Enjoy over a special occasion with that special somebody!

- Kristen Johnson

Like other chefs from all over the world, I prefer to use San Marzano tomatoes from the Campania Region of Italy. First grown in the volcanic soil at the base of Mount Versuvius, they are a varietal of plum tomatoes that are thin and pointy with very few seeds, not to mention they peel easily for smooth prep work. Considered a bittersweet flavor, San Marzanos add a sweeter finish to any sauce and are designated as the only tomatoes that can be used for a true Napoletana Pizza.

According to the stories, the first seeds were a gift from the Kingdom of Peru to the Kingdom of Naples in 1770 but this is sadly only a myth. There was actually no king of Peru at the time and tomato specimens were brought over from the New World to Central Europe by European explorers long before 1770. Originally tomatoes were thought to be poisonous and used merely as decorations but they quickly became a staple throughout the world. Thank goodness!

So, the next time you’re in the mood to practice your sauce cooking skills remember to balance the flavors, use fresh ingredients and don’t overcook pasta for nobody.

-MG

Watch this video on YouTube.

Owner of Assaggio Ristorante Seattle, Mauro Golmarvi, shares a few tips for Valentine’s Day on Sunrise Seattle with Elisa and Mark on radio station KVI AM 570.

Since the day is about celebrating your love, you must toast with Prosecco, an Italian sparkling wine from the Valdobbiadene region. Prosecco is a lighter, fresher drink than its French counterpart, Champagne.  It is made using the Charmat method which allows the wine to undertake the second fermentation in a pressurized, stainless steel tank, rather than individual bottles like Champagne, creating a lighter drink. Italians drink Prosecco not only on special occasions but every day. They consider it their aperitif, an appetizer drink served before the meal to stimulate the appetite, and to start the good times with family and friends.

As the day carries on, you will be thinking about your plans for dinner, candlelit of course, and the intimate time you will share with your date. As much as we Italians encourage you to mangi, eat, be mindful that getting sleepy after the second course is not advisable.

And finally, remember to focus on what Valentine’s Day stands for, love and compassion. Smile and be patient with everyone that will make your day perfect, the people who have given their day to you; florists, sales associates, servers and many more.

Share the first part of your day by listening to me live tomorrow, Tuesday, February 14 at 6:30 A.M. on radio station KVI AM 570 as I talk about Valentine’s Day.

Have a wonderful and loved filled Valentine’s Day!

-MG